Prateek Hira (President & CEO) of Tornos delivered a message on the occasion of World Tourism Day – 2020. His emphasis this year was on self-reliance and that we should stop expecting bail-out package from the government in these most difficult times of pandemic.
The key phrase he chose was, “…. be on the marks, get set and when the time comes just GO.”
Tourism is at a standstill due to the pandemic but this surely doesn’t mean we do not think of it or we stop planning for its development, as tourism is the only activity that will help economies to revive fastest and sustainably.
The power of self reliance or in the words of our Prime Minister, ‘Atmnirbharta’ can be best understood in the light of tourism that has helped economies world over to grow and communities to prosper on their own. People and places where tourism prospers have shown remarkable development and growth in a self-reliant manner. Supplementary income generation for communities, alternative employment opportunities, improvement in education and living standards of its people, all have been documented to register a substantial growth with tourism flowing in. The development is somewhat equally proportional to the growth on tourism.
Rural development in India is a subject of great importance but we have seldom seen or imagined, tourism to be an engine of growth that can accelerate the development and that too by fulfilling all ‘Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)’.
Apart from all the devastations that this pandemic did, particularly in India, the worst upheaval of the lock-down on economy was the reverse migration of labour-force that went back to the rural areas in absence of employment and support from the employers. This created many issues including poverty and hunger apart from so many others.
Tourism often is seen as an urban activity though its rural penetration, which is often overlooked, provides innumerable community benefits to both, the hosts and the guests. Not only does it supplement income of rural communities but also helps in sustaining the heritage, culture, traditions and environment of the rural areas, which are quite deep-rooted and still undisturbed as compared to the urban areas.
In present times and specially in the light of this pandemic, out of the seventeen SDGs adopted in 2015 to fulfill by 2030, at least ten hold much more importance and seem to have been set for these circumstances. These include, GOAL 1: No Poverty, GOAL 2: Zero Hunger, GOAL 3: Good Health and Well-being, GOAL 4: Quality Education, GOAL 5: Gender Equality, GOAL 6: Clean Water and Sanitation, GOAL 8: Decent Work and Economic Growth, GOAL 10: Reduced Inequality, GOAL 11: Sustainable Cities and Communities and GOAL 12: Responsible Consumption and Production.
In Indian context we can turn this situation around very quickly and sooner than one could think. There could be no better way to empower our rural folks than to give them the power of Tourism.
COVID–Break if we may call it so, is an opportune time to refocus our strategies and re-plan our goals for a sustainable tourism development focusing on rural communities. United Nations Tourism Organisation (UNWTO)’s theme for this World Tourism Day (27 September 2020) too is ‘Tourism & Rural Development’ and quite pertinent in present times.
Let’s aim to make tourism a vehicle of growth and development for a speedy revival of economy and empowerment of our rural communities.
Prateek Hira, the author of this short article apart from being the President & CEO of Tornos is a tourism academician and a researcher.
On the banks of River Ganges in Kanpur (then called and spelt as Cawnpore) is Wheeler’s Entrenchment. When driving from Lucknow to Kanpur via Unnao we cross Ganges and actually this river separated the Kingdom of Awadh (British called Oudh) from the erstwhile Cawnpore that was the head quarter and probably had the largest military base of East India Company that included second Light Cavalry, 61 gunners and First, Fifty-third & Fifty-sixth Native Infantry, having twenty-four pounders and nine pounder under the command of Major General Hugh Massy Wheeler. Cawnpore also had families of Her Majesty’s thirty-second Foot that was posted in Lucknow which then was the capital of Oudh. Cawnpore also had a huge population of British civilians who were wealthy traders and connected to different walks and then a substantial numbers of Indian Christians (including Anglo-Indians).
Maj Gen Sir Hugh Wheeler, garrison commander at Cawnpore 1857
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Major General Sir Hugh Massy Wheeler KCB (KCB is the most honourable Order of the Bath – Knight Commander) was born in Clonbeg, County Tipperary on 30 June 1789 to a Hugh and Margret Wheeler. Hugh the senior was a Captain in the East India Company and Margret’s father Hugh Massy was the First Baron Massy. Sir Hugh Massy Wheeler went to the Bath Grammar School and then joined the Bengal Army in 1803. Just two years later he reached India in 1805 to join Lord Lake’s forces. In his military career he commanded the troops during the 1st Anglo Afghan War and in both Anglo-Sikh Wars, the 1st and the 2nd, before joining as the Garrison Commander in Cawnpore (Kanpur) in 1856 where he lived with his wife and two small daughters while his son, George Godfrey Massy Wheeler from the First Infantry, also aide-de-camp was posted here along with him. |
When Major General Sir Hugh Massy Wheeler got the news of skirmishes and the outbreak of the mutiny in Meerut which started on 14th May 1857, he was prompted to secure the families that resided in Cawnpore. He then ordered a mud construction of a boundary wall and some temporary barracks around the existing ones near his house, so that in case of a rebellion, he could move families in this area and secure them from any threats. This action of Wheeler was criticized then and is somewhat questionable today too but he did what he thought was best in those times and circumstances. This area was called the ‘Wheeler’s Entrenchment’.
Critics point out that the better place would have been a permanent structure which was about 11 kilometres away and stored the supplies of ammunition. Plus it would have been hard for the rebels to reach the place in case of any eventuality as it was at a distance and not so easy then. The story of Wheeler’s Entrenchment would have been quite different had the location been this magazine and surely not as gruesome as it became later. General Wheeler probably thought that rebels if get active in Cawnpore, would repeat their strategy of Meerut and move towards Delhi, abandoning Cawnpore thus arrangements for a temporary siege was required and that too for a limited period.
Wheeler’s Entrenchment with its mud wall. This sketch is from a book, ‘The History of the Indian Revolt and of the Expeditions to Persia, China and Japan 1856’; by George Dodd
On 20 May 1857 a fire broke in the lines of 1st Infantry which the British thought to be the beginning of the rebellion in Cawnpore. The same day 2nd Cavalry defected after they heard that British were out to destroy and crush them. Probably it was a hoax message brought by a soldier of the 56th. Based on these two events, Wheeler asked all European women and children to be brought to the barracks in the entrenched area at least for the night. Cawnpore summers are harsh, really harsh, and that prompted many to return to their own homes which were much cooler and had better arrangements than the accommodation in the entrenchment. Also, many British trusted their native guards and were overly confident in spite of the threats, or so it is believed by many historians. Wheeler himself was underestimating the threat; still he had asked Sir Henry Lawrence to send reinforcement. On this request 55 soldiers from Thirty-Second Foot reached Cawnpore.
Nana Sahib, Raja of Bithoor
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Nana Sahib (birth name: Dhondu Pant) was the adopted son of the last Peshwa, the Maratha prince Baji Rao-II. Baji Rao had been dethroned in 1818 by the British and was granted a pension for life of Rupees Eight Hundred Thousand. He took up residence at Bithoor near Cawnpore (Kanpur) and had adopted Dhondu Pant as his son, calling him ‘Nana Sahib’. Baji Rao petitioned the British Government that Nana Sahib be allowed to inherit the title and benefit of the pension his natural heir, but British did not agree to it as Nana Sahib was not a natural heir. After the death of Baji Rao in 1851, the then Governor General, Lord Dalhousie, turned down the request for pension to Nana, this in spite of a recommendation from the British Commissioner who was responsible for the Peshwa’s estate. But Nana Sahib never gave up and fought for his father’s pension and the title for himself. |
When the information of the rebellion in Meerut reached Cawnpore, Nana Sahib, the Raja of Bithoor, who had a good hold on the natives and was a leader assured Charles Hillersdon (British tax collector and magistrate in Cawnpore) of all support. Also, reassuringly Nana Sahib gave his place to the family of Hillersdon as a safe-house plus a force of fifteen hundred of his men to crush the mutiny, if it erupted in Cawnpore.
Azimullah Khan (Nana Sahib’s Advisor)
Azimullah Khan who was the advisor of Nana Sahib, who spoke good English and often acted as a messenger of Nana, mediating between Nana Sahib and the British. Azimullah went to meet Lt. M.G. Daniell and during the meeting, in reference to the entrenchment remarked, “Fort of Despair“, to which Daniell said it was “Fort of Victory“. This conversation between the two was somewhat a signal of things to come and quite contradictory to what Nana Sahib had assured Charles Hillersdon.
On 1st June 1857 there was a secret meeting between Nana Sahib, Subedar Tika Singh, Havaldar Major Gopal Singh and another four sepoys. This meeting lasted for about 2 hours and was held on the boat. In this meeting Nana Sahib was convinced to step in and join the rebel forces.
The news of this meeting reached Charles Hillersdon through his clerk. Then Hillersdon asked Nana Sahib directly about it, but Nana again reassured him that the soldiers will not deter and that Nana himself was ensuring the same. Hillersdon seemed to have been convinced about Nana’s loyalty and efforts and once again believed Nana Sahib.
Just five days later on 6 June 1857 Nana Sahib camped in Cawnpore and declared himself as the Peshwa. Tika Singh, the Subedar of Second Light Infantry who had met Nana Sahib in the secret boat meeting on 1 June was now appointed as his General commanding the Cavalry while Subedar Ganga Din and Jamaadar Dalganjan Singh were given the rank of Colonel and made the commanders. Two flags were adopted, one that represented Lord Hanuman to garner support of Hindus while another for the Muslims to win the trust of Mahommedans.
Tantya Tope played a very crucial role of garnering support and raising troops. In fact Tantya Tope was a much better commander than the ones who were officially appointed by Nana.
Tantya Tope (an able aide of Nana Sahib)
Nana asked the Maratha troops who were under the command of Tantya Tope to hoist a flag at the old Residency in Nawabganj, denoting that it was his rule now and that he had taken over from the British. Many men on horses now moved around the city of Cawnpore, plundering and killing the British and the Indian Christian community that was still living there and had for some reason not shifted to the entrenchment. Even the Indians, both Hindus and Muslims who helped British and Indian Christians hide, were not spared. Cawnpore had many British businessmen who owned shops and establishments, they too were not spared and shot by these men on horses who set out for this task.
By now Wheeler’s Entrenchment had about nine hundred men, women and children, most of these were British. It is believed, there were two hundred and ten soldiers who included sixty-one from artillery, seventy were wounded or ill and fifteen were from Madras Fusiliers. Then, there were seventy British officers, about one hundred non-military personnel (traders etc) and three hundred and thirty ladies and children were also in the entrenched area. About one hundred Indian servants, forty drummers and twenty loyal sepoys were also a part of this.
Now Nana ordered the guns from the magazine (the place where many suggested should have been the entrenchment. Ref. Paragraph: 2) to be placed near the entrenchment in position. A letter was then sent by Nana Sahib to Gen. Hugh Wheeler warning him of the attack at 10 am. This shocked Wheeler as he always thought the rebels would move to Delhi. All officers reported to Wheeler in haste, leaving all their belongings and allowing rebels and Nana’s men who were on the prowl to loot all of it.
This is a picture of the sword belonging to Nana Sahib in 1857. It was later in procession of Brigadier Major Henry Templer of 7th Bengal Infantry.
The very first shot fired by the rebel forces was from a nine pounder and it struck the mud-wall. It landed on the roof of a concrete barrack. Many ladies and children were outside the barrack and the sound of bugle prompted all to take their post.
Plan of Wheeler’s Entrenchment
During the day the firing was much fierce. The first to be killed was a gunner, McGuire. The chaos now took over inside the entrenchment where screams of ladies and children could now be heard and all aimlessly rushed for safer shelter. Those who were influential, got the priority in safer places while the rest were running from one place to another in search of a safe place to be in.
Illustration: Nine-Pounder at the Siege of Cawnpore. (Cassell, C 1890).
Mornings had passed and later by afternoon, no less than fourteen guns were set around the Wheeler’s Entrenchment. Initially the British gave a befitting reply with their Howitzer, killing about nineteen including twelve civilians who had only gathered to see the action. But now, the British inside the entrenchment had to be conservative with their ammunition which was nothing as compared to what mutineers had in their procession, nor did they have an supplies forthcoming. When the sun had set and light was dim, taking advantage of the darkness, rebels reached within the range of only forty-five meters of the entrenchment’s mud-wall to fire shots from their muskets.
Illustrative image of a field howitzer
It is recorded that two children aged only eight years or so were left in a barrack by their parents, assuming it to be safe inside, though when they returned to take them, the scene was unbearable for any parent. A shell had ripped the roof and fell on the children blowing their bodies and splashing the blood, pieces of bones, flesh and parts of brain all over the room. To collect the remains, parents had to walk carefully so as to avoid stepping on any remain of their loved children’s bodies.
Another tragic death was that of Charles Hillersdon, who had faith on Nana Sahib and considered him to be his good friend, trusting him all the while. Next day of the siege Hillersdon reached his wife Lydia who was then pregnant leaving his post. Lydia was living with one Mrs. Ewart and to get some private time with his wife, Charles Hillersdon led her out from the room to the verandah outside. As both stood talking to each other, a gunshot struck Charles’ stomach ripping it apart in front of his wife who was horrified and motionless. Her own death was destined on 9 June 1857 when heavy firing buried her alive with her unborn child in the debris of her own room. Her almost headless body was dragged out as her head was smashed badly but as there was no opportunity to bury the body of Charles Hillersdon’s wife Lydia, it was thrown in the well outside. It is recorded that when the siege at the Wheeler’s Entrenchment ended this well was stuffed with no less than 250 dead-bodies piled in it.
 Letter from Emma Ewart Larkins (Credit: Rebecca Gowers / British Library) Interestingly on Tuesday, 9th June 1857 a letter was written by Emma Ewart Larkins, wife of George Larkins, an artillery officer, who was in the entrenchment with her husband, three small children and a loyal native ‘Ayah’ (Nanny). She wrote quite a few letters for her family and friends from within the entrenchment and these were presumably posted by her ‘Munna’, the loyal Ayah. One of them was addressed to her sister-in-law, George’s sister and interestingly the letter was posted and reached England too, though much later. Excerpt from this letter read: “I write this dearest Henrietta in the belief that our time of departure is come’. The whole of the troops rose here & we took refuge in a Barrack. We are so hemmed in by overpowering numbers that there seems no hope of escape”.  Emma Ewart Larkins, C 1840 Portrait by L. Power, (Credit: Rebecca Gowers, British Library) |
Then there was havoc played by the north-Indian summer heat when temperature usually goes up to 40C during the day and at least the first week of June could be unbearably humid. Now Major George Larkins who was one of many senior artillery officers unable to bear the intense heat wave, coupled with fatigue and continued lack of sleep, died. Similarly, Wheeler’s subordinate Brig Jack, a decorated officer who too died of intense heat and unkind conditions, just like Sir George Parker, the magistrate.
George Larkins with his daughter Alice (Pic taken on Christmas of 1851; Pic Credit: Rebecca Gowers, British Library)
This had already shaken Wheeler’s confidence to the core and just then he lost Col. Williams of Fifty-Sixth who was though wounded but actually died due to the cruel June weather on Sunday night of 7th June and his body could not be buried all day and was left in the courtyard of the Wheeler’s room, horrifying the wife and the two teenage daughters of Wheeler, who just could not be consoled despite best of efforts.
The stock of medicine and all medical supplies were now over and the condition was pitiable with no respite in sight. Now it was not only the gun shot that could kill, but also heat and above all lack of medical aid. The temporary structures were almost destroyed and one and a half feet trenches were only shelters, if at all they may be called so. Though these too were of no good, and no less than dug-up graves with harsh sun above and enough to kill the ones in it.
Siege was at its peak, with no reinforcement coming to rescue and now it was the turn of food supplies reaching an end. Some flour and dal was what was left and that too just a handful and not enough to feed all who were in the Wheeler’s Entrenchment.
Horse-meat was yet another option that was now being looked upon. An old horse strayed into the entrenched area and it was immediately cut into pieces and without peeling off the skin properly or washing the meat, the pieces were roasted on fire and distributed among the now hungry inhabitants of the entrenchment. Each part of the horse’s body was put to use, including its head and other waste parts, which were boiled in water and given to the ladies and children as soup, without letting them know what it was made of.
One can survive without food for a few days but now all hell broke loose, when water was in short supply within the entrenchment. A single well catered to the requirement of the entrenchment. The rebels probably knew this or as a strategy they blew off the brick and the wooden structure around the well, leaving it exposed. Even the pulley apparatus that was used to draw water was now gone. This site acted as bait, rebels would fire at anyone seen around it, even in the night. Now only strong men and that too the brave ones could draw water, as drawing water had become tough without the pulley and the site was now the riskiest spot. Some native labourers and soldiers were being paid half a Pound for just a pitcher of water. This too did not last long and one after another the labourers and privates were killed.
One civil servant John Mckillop became the self-appointed in-charge of the well. Despite he being a civilian he was quite courageous and took upon himself, selflessly, the task of drawing water from the well and supplying it to all. This continued for a week till he was shot in groin. He was so sincere for his work that when he was being taken on a stretcher, he requested the bearers to send someone to the well to draw water for a lady whom he had promised to supply. By now water was in such a short supply that a bucket of water which had blood of a lady injured by a shell in it, was without any hesitation drunk. Small children were sucking old bags, leather belts and clothes to retrieve some drops of moisture and sweat from these.
Finally Wheeler was devastated seeing the conditions and wrote to Martin Richard Gubbins in Lucknow, which was itself preparing to counter a rebellion: “We have been besieged since the sixth by the Nana Sahib, joined by the whole of the native troops, who broke out on the morning of the fourth. Our defence has been noble and wonderful, our loss heavy and cruel. We want aid, aid and aid. If we had 200 men, we could punish the scoundrels and aid you”.
This letter by General Sir Hugh Massy Wheeler was deliver in Lucknow to Gubbins on 16 June 1857 by a servant who is said to have been paid Rupees Five Thousand in lieu of this most difficult task. This letter was replied by Brigadier General Sir Henry Montgomery Lawrence: “I am very sorry indeed to hear of your condition and grieve that I cannot help you. I have consulted with the Chief Officers about this, and except Gubbins, they are unanimous in thinking that with the enemy’s command of the river, we could not possibly get a single man into your entrenchment. Pray don’t think me selfish. I would run much risk could I see a commensurate prospect of success. In the present scheme I see none…..God grant you his protection”.
Tuesday, 16 June 1857 further two reinforcements of the mutineers under fourth and fifth Oudh Infantry crossed the river Ganges and informed Nana Sahib that in the next two days the entrenchment will be taken-over fully by them. Nana was so elated that he asked his men to arrange for sweets and give utmost respect to this contingent which he thought was really brave and would help him realize his dream of taking over from the British much sooner. Sadly for Nana and luckily for the British, on 18 June other rebels did not support this contingent much as they could have and there was no success and they were crushed.
Somehow the rebels believed that exactly after a century of the Battle of Plassey which had to fall on Tuesday, 23 June 1857, the British rule would come to an end and that the day was of great importance for the rebel forces to succeed. At one of their meetings, it was thus decided that the final assault should be made on 23 June 1857. One Subedar Maj Radhey Singh, who belonged to the First Infantry, had a deep connection to it. His regiment had largely been responsible to lead British to victory in the Battle of Plassey in 1757. Radhey Singh was actually living in this guilt that the regiment to which he belonged to, had sided with the British to make them victorious in the Battle of Plassey hundred years ago. Now he thought was the time, to correct the fault of his regiment by defeating the British and so he took oath in the name of Ganges, either to take over the Wheeler’s Entrenchment on 23rd June 1857 or to die.
As the sun of 23 June was visible about four thousand mutineers got ready to attack and this number had to be countered by only two hundred and fifty men from British side. As the charge was ordered horsemen of Second Cavalry charged with swords in their hands and dust blew all around. As they advanced towards the boundary of the entrenchment and were only about ninety meters away, Wheeler ordered Nine-Pounders and gun shots to be fired. This brought down quite a few horsemen from the Indian side and the rest fled in confusion and chaos. Probably the rebels were overconfident and expected this the least.
This success of Wheeler’s forces was though very short lived and just then from towards the church white clouds could be seen advancing and these were stacks of cotton wool that were scattered by the mutineers belonging to the First infantry, who now advanced and when were about hundred and fifty meters away, they fired to cover the main attack while the ones who were behind, yelled in the peak of their voice to create panic among the inhabitants of the Wheeler’s Entrenchment. This attack was led by Subedar Major Radhay Singh who tried to scale the wall but was immediately shot dead, causing a great deal of blow to all under his command.
Just then, about five hundred rebels attacked a post and were given a befitting reply by the British forces, though mutineers had caused eighteen casualties on the British side, until Capt John Moore with a force of twenty five arrived to disperse them.
By that noon the mutineers seized fire. Gen. Wheeler now from the trench returned to his room and hell broke loose. He was shocked to see his son Godfrey who was from the First Infantry and also aide-de-camp, dead. Godfrey’s head had blown into pieces, parts of the skull, hair and the brain strewn all over and the blood splashed on the walls. This was a result of a nine-pounder shell. For Wheeler as a father to see the body of his son in this manner was just enough to break him much more than the war outside.
Next day Wheeler wrote another letter to Lawrence: “British spirit alone remains, but it cannot last forever….We have no instruments, no medicine, provision for a few days at further and no possibility of getting any, as all communication with the town is cut off. We have been cruelly deserted and left to our fate: we had not two hundred and twenty soldiers of all arms, at first. The casualties have been numerous”.
George Godfrey Massy Wheeler (Gen Hugh Wheeler’s son)
The most crucial and the worst attack was presumably over and possibly there wouldn’t have been any more of this intensity, yet the entrenchment was devastated with about one third of the inhabitants dead, so many injured and the rest were so battered that it was hard to recognise them as human beings. This was the ruling class, the superior British who were now reduced to the condition which was worse than death. The entrenchment was full of foul smell of human and animal flesh, each drop of water now available inside was mixed with blood and smelt of rotten flesh. Disheveled, stinking and lifeless men, women and children now occupied the so called garrison.
Jonah Shepherd approached Wheeler, who was by now week in just these eighteen days of the siege since 6 June. He looked to have aged and become feeble. Shepherd told Wheeler that he intended to go in disguise to check on the enemy and understand their condition, and for this in return, he be permitted to exit along with his family. To this Gen. Wheeler at first was furious and thought Shepherd was deserting all and being selfish, but when Shepherd explained if this were the case, he anyway would have earlier deserted and wouldn’t have come to Wheeler to seek his permission. Gen. Wheeler understood and allowed Shepherd. In the afternoon of 24th June 1857, Jonah Shepherd changed into the dress of a khansama and put on a native turban to reach the enemy area. Shepherd was taken into custody for interrogation by Nana’s army, in which he successfully could prove he was a native khansama. Shepherd was asked about the Wheeler’s camp and if the British wanted to exit and surrender. Shepherd did not reply in affirmative and fringed ignorance but at the same time added that the ladies and children surely wished to come out and if an acceptable offer be made, they might accept. He was asked, if he agreed to carry a letter from Nana Sahib written to Gen. Wheeler regarding the offer, to which he immediately agreed. Probably this created a bit of doubt for Shepherd in the enemy camp. No one said anything to him though, but the body language of the interrogator was such and he left without a word. After sometime, Shepherd came to know that an old lady is being sent to the Wheeler’s Entrenchment with a letter or offer of release. Shepherd was quite happy to learn this and was now confident that the day of hope was not far now.
Same evening at a distance, Wheeler’s men spotted someone and assumed him to be a spy, planning to shoot him down but as he came closer, they could make out this was a woman with a child, walking without her shoes towards the entrenchment. Captain Mowbray Thompson of 53rd Native Infantry recognised her as Mrs. Greenway from the family of a merchant and helped her come in. She was weak and quite sick and almost fainted. When she regained consciousness, she handed over a letter which was addressed to, ”The Subjects of Her Most Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria”· The letter was opened by Gen. Wheeler and it read, “All those who are in no way connected with the acts of Lord Dalhousie, and are willing to lay down their arms, shall receive a safe passage to Allahabad.” But this letter was not signed by Nana Sahib, thus Wheeler did not accept it as factual and doubted its intent.
Next day on 26 June 1857 in the morning another message reached the garrison in an envelope and this time through a Eurasian lady Mrs. Jacobi, who till now was in captivity of Nana Sahib. Mrs Jacobi was sent with this message but Nana as her guarantee to return, had kept her children captive with him and had warned her that if she did not return, her children would be killed. The letter was handed over to Gen. Wheeler and this time it was under the signatures of Nana Sahib.
Wheeler then called a meeting of senior officers such as Francis Whiting, John Moore and Edward Vibart so that a consensus could be reached, to accept or to reject the offer of Nana Sahib. Wheeler still wanted to face the rebels as he was not trusting Nana and then somehow was confident of relief forces reaching soon to Cawnpore. But then, Moore was concerned about the ladies and children in the camp and raised the point of food supplies that would only last for only the next three days and that there were no medicines to treat the sick and the injured. Above all, the ammunition was very limited and would not last. To this Whiting sided with Moore and wanted to surrender and opt for the safe passage as promised by Nana. Thompson though differed with Moore and took sides of Wheeler who wanted to go on fighting. But Wheeler gave in as he really could not see the plight of ladies and children in the camp and got convinced with Moore, agreeing to get into a treaty with Nana – one that promised hope for ladies and children.
Jwala Prasad (This photo was taken after his arrest much later in C. 1859)
Now by the same afternoon, a meeting between the British under Wheeler and the rebels under Nana Sahib was held. Azimullah Khan and Jwala Prasad were the envoys of Nana Sahib, who reached on their horses while the British side was represented by Whiting, Moore and Roche (Mr.Roche was a British postmaster in Cawnpore) who reached walking at a common designated point. Azimullah Khan started speaking in English but as Jwala couldn’t understand, he wanted all of it to be translated in Hindi for him and asked Azimullah to talk in Hindi instead. Probably there was some trust deficit between the two, Azimullah and Jwala, else Jwala wouldn’t have protested. Anyway, the offer from Nana Sahib was that he will allow all in the entrenchment to leave for Allahabad (now Prayagraj) through the river route on the covered boats and for this, British side will have to surrender all ammunition and treasure before leaving for Allahabad.
Francis Whiting, John Moore and Roche disputed the terms of offer and wanted to retain personal fire-arms and some ammunition. Also, they wanted each boat to have food supplies, including some goats on it and that the injured and the sick be carried on stretchers till the boarding point of the boats on the closest bank of Ganges. A horseman with this term then left to meet Nana and to get his opinion about it. The horseman returned after an hour, only to announce Nana Sahib’s acceptance of all terms and wanted the British to leave in the evening the same day. Though Wheeler was of the opinion that they wouldn’t be able to get ready in such a short time, thus should look at the next day as the day of departure. Treaty was then drafted and taken to Nana Sahib in Bithoor, his headquarters, by one Mr. Todd who was Nana Sahib’s former teacher and was now a part of the garrison.
There was celebration all around the Wheeler’s Entrenchment as if each man, woman and child had been injected with a dose of happiness. With joy people were dancing and children after so many days started playing and jumping with joy as if their childhood was back. No shots from the enemy side were now heard and after many days, all inside the camp could eat well as there was no fear of food finishing early. Well was now accessible and all could now quench their thirst without the fear of being killed by the enemy. Some of course were still doubtful and only questioned, if they will really be able to get to Allahabad and will they live, but the mood in the Wheeler’s Entrenchment was so jovial that there was absolutely no room for any pessimism. This was the first night when most of the inhabitants of the garrison slept well with hope.
While men got busy in cleaning the guns and stocking up the allowed ammunition, others were seen collecting their belongings in the barracks. Many had something to carry along while many others were left with absolutely nothing. Children were holding on to their dolls and toys, some ladies were busy hiding jewels in their clothes. There were a few who had hid boxes of valuables in the earth and now were digging it to carry along on the boat to Allahabad. Some only had the holy Bible to carry along.
Wheeler’s Entrenchment, as devastated after the Siege ended here, or when seize-fire was there.
Next day on 27 June 1857 as decided, all left the Wheeler’s Entrenchment for the banks. And the entrenchment wore a war-torn look with flesh-stench, scattered belongings bullet and shell marks. Many had lost their loved ones and many saw devastating scenes which would have haunted them always such as Charles Hillersdon being killed in front of his pregnant wife Lydia and the dreadful death of Godfrey, Hugh Wheeler’s son. Devastation of Wheeler Entrenchment had seized but what followed was worse…
‘The Battered Barracks of Gen Hugh Wheeler, Cawnpore-1857’ – lithograph by Vincent Brooks. Showing a skeleton and a preying vulture.
On 17th September 2020 India Foundation’s Center for Public Diplomacy and Soft Power as apart of their ‘Brand India Arts, Crafts and Design Festival’ on Day 4 organised a Panel Discussion titled ‘Tourism and Arts, Crafts and Design’.
The session was moderated by Sudarshan Ramabadran, Senior Research Fellow and Administrative Head, India Foundation’s Center for Public Diplomacy and Soft Power.
This panel included Tornos’ President & CEO, Prateek Hira who spoke about immersive travel experiences and how Tornos under its cultural mapping of the state of Uttar Pradesh is taking up each district to map its craft, culture, cuisine and traditions and bring forth their tourism potential. Prateek Hira detailed how Indian art and craft can be encouraged through tourism and be made a revenue model which he said was important for its survival and in many cases revival too.
“The best thing with India is its uniqueness throughout and no duplication of culture, art, crafts and designs, which makes it a huge destination comparable to a continent. We have been working to identify and unearth all the potential and curate experiences from what exists. The experiences that we cater to are not created but only curated. This means they exist around us and only need to be identified and brought forward as a product” said Prateek.
Other eminent speakers on the panel were Charmaine Mirza (Independent Consultant), Henna Wang (Art Historian and Co-Founder, Gesso Art) and Narayanan & Preethika (Travel Bloggers, Passing Ports).
Government of Uttar Pradesh has received twenty proposals for hotel worth about 3 Billion and these include heritage and five star hotels and resorts. A research shows that about twenty percent tourist visiting Ayodhya spend their night there and with the announcement of temple in Ayodhya and Ayodhya being redone this figure is expected to multiply and then hotels in all categories and for all classes of tourist will be required. It is expected that daily arrival of tourist in Ayodhya will be about one hundred thousand and then these stay facilities spread across all categories will be required. There has been a steady rise in the incoming tourists to Ayodhya. In 2011 it saw a total arrival of 12 million which went up to 20 million in 2019 and now a projected figure for 2025 is that of 39 million tourists. A shortfall of about four thousand rooms by 2030.
Tornos has earlier established its office in Ayodhya and is working to make very lucrative packages to attract tourists and retain them to stay at least for a night if not more through its researched tours that will incite tourists to spend time in Ayodhya. Tornos is working on introducing many walking tours and experiences in Ayodhya that will be available throughout the day and will keep tourists busy all day. With very privileged tie-ups in Ayodhya, Tornos will be able to deliver smooth entry into the temples, organize one to one meetings with the priests and locals to get the most of the visit of its guests to Ayodhya.
Model of the proposed Ram Temple in Ayodhya of which the foundation was laid by Prime Minister Modi on 5 August 2020
Union Civil Aviation Ministry has been now requested by the state government to at least do up the airstrip soon and allow bigger aircraft to land while the work on terminal building may continue.
In a recent meeting with the Chief Minister of UP Yogi Adityanath following key points were highlighted :-
Tornos has formed a focused team that is working in Ayodhya and has set itself the deadline on December 2020 when all the packages, short tours and experiences in Ayodhya will be in place ready for launch. It is expected that in January 2021 Tornos will be able to inaugurate its office in Ayodhya.
Lucknow is coming up with a very unique fifty thousand square feet museum and an interpretation center in its heritage zone, Husainabad – the area that has all the Nawabi era monuments including Asafi Imambara and Rumi Darwaza. This is expected to be a reality by 2022 and the work which was pending since long has now seen the light again.
The ministry of culture, government of India has given an NOC for the project that will take one back in the times of Nawabs that will include food court offering all the famous Nawabi cuisines. Defence Minister of India Mr. Rajnath Singh who is also a Member of Parliament (MP) from Lucknow had recently visited Iran on 5th September 2020 when he shared this news with the delegation there, informing them about the rich Persian History that Lucknow has and how Lucknow has the maximum population of Shia Muslims after that of Iran. It is an undeniable fact that Persian influences can be found in every aspect of Lucknow from its heritage monuments, cuisine and even the customs.
This museum will be a 3 floor structure near the Husainabad Clock Tower modeled on the lines of Husainabad. Public utility services that would include wash-room and curio shop will be a part of this construction. Interpretation gallery will also take visitors through the events of the battle of Karbala detailing each episode and explaining its importance in Shia history. State of art audio visual panels will enrich the experience of the visitors to this museum.
Each gallery will be named after the heritage monument or a historical place of the city, such as Rumi, Satkhanda, Kudia Ghat etc. Each gallery will bring out the importance and the rich history of the place associated with it. A dedicated gallery for the Nawabs of Awadh will also be a part of this project. As a part of this project, food vendors who encroach the heritage zone and clutter the areas outside Lucknow monuments will be relocated on the street behind the clock tower, just a short walk from the upcoming museum thereby giving the entire area a clean and a serene look.
WonderLook Magazine in its September 2020 issue carries news about Tornos’ Ayodhya office. Ayodhya is Tornos’ latest addition to its served destination. The huge potential that the city promises and Tornos’ long association with it encouraged this expansion even during the time when travel business is at a distance due to ongoing pandemic. We are sure that this location will not only add to the revenue of the company but will also provide employment and economic opportunity to locals. Tornos is known to have been working with local communities through all its experiential tours and Ayodhya will be no different.
Source/Credits : Lost Monuments of Lucknow (Saiyed Anwer Abbas) & Monuments of Lucknow (Yogesh Parveen
Lal or Surkh is the word for the colour red. Since the Baradari was painted inside and outside in red thus it was known as Surkh or Lal Baradari. This two storeyed structure with a large pillared hall on the top was built by Nawab Saadat Ali Khan to serve as his Durbar Hall (Hall of Audience). Mookherji calls the structure ‘Lal Baradwari’ and attributes its architecture to Kifayat-ullh, well known as the architect for the Asafi Imamabara that was built by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah.
Lal Baradari continued to have the honour of serving as the Coronation Hall for all the Kings of Awadh, consequent to Nawab Ghazi-ud-Din Haider’s installation as the first King of Awadh, in October 1819 when the Nawab Wazir at the behest of the British became a sovereign, an independent ruler who was no more a subordinate of the Mughal King in Delhi. The hall was known as the ‘Throne Room’ with the placement of the throne of the King of Awadh who took over the reins. It was also referred as Qasr-e-Sultan (King’s palace) and Kasur-oos-Sooleman’ (Qasr-e-Sulaiman) in an English transcript of a letter from King Naseerud-Din Haider to British Resident, Sir John Low (Sulaiman is the name of a legendary Emperor of the Muslim world who has many stories related to his personality including the one where he possessed magical throne that could fly at his command).
Lal Baradari is mentioned with different names by writers. Rouse names it as Kasrool Khakan (Qasr-ul-Khaaqaan) Kamal-ud-Din Haider in his accounts has used the term Sar-e-rah ki baradari for this building, which means ‘a baradari erected besides the road’. Nami has termed it as Putli-wali Baradari. This name was meant to indicate putli (statues) that were there, fashioned at the base of wooden pillars that supported the verandah roof of the baradari. These statues are specifically mentioned in the description of the ‘Lal Baradari’ in a Guide Book of 1885 as a distinguishing feature. ‘It’s peculiarity of construction from other buildings is in the wooden anthropostylar base of which supported the veranda roof pillars on the north and south sides. The figures are those of Negro eunuchs (the only sort of Negros employed in eastern palaces) standing with arms folded, and bearing the posts or pillars on their heads. The white for their eyeballs, and black paint in flesh colour’ represent them as dark as sentinels from ghost land. And it as well they appear fully clad in long coats and turbans, for as nude classics studies they would be intolerably hideous. Four of these Life size putli are clearly seen at ground level in photograph of the building by John Edward Sache taken in around 1867 wherein the verandah on the south-west corner is visible on the right hand side of the picture. Two of them are also visible in a picture of the Lal Baradari and the adjoining building which is now displayed at the State Museum in Lucknow.
During the rule of Nasiruddin Haider the Baradari went through another transformation. The courts of Indian Nawabs had begun to emulate British décor. The traditional Nawabi throne was replaced by a golden chair inlaid with ivory work. The Badshah too gave up the ‘jama-Agarkha’ and took to wearing a collared coat during the court session. For visitor and other dignitaries there were sandalwood-seats. The guards now held guns instead of swords and spears.
The oriental glamour of Lal Baradari was thus totally replaced by British decor. William Knighton, a historian, has mentioned about the glamour of Nasir-ud-Din’s court. Fanny Parkes-a well Known traveller and a travel writer, had participated in the state celebrations of Nasir-ud-Din’s coronation. She very much impressed by the strikingly beautiful Begums of the King. The Resident himself had confirmed the recognition of Badshah’s status by the British East India Company and offered gift during the coronation. Nasir-ud-Din Haider had surrendered his oriental pride and self-respect to the petty gains to the British. The Lal Baradari had seen the rise and fall of several Kings of Avadh. It has been a mute witness to numerous celebrations in the court of Avadh, during which free flow of liquor, dances by beautiful girls, and dubious actions of the scheming British were the order. While on one hand the Lal Baradari had been a silent spectator to the exaggerated flattering of courtiers and sycophants and on another, it has resonated with the musical renderings of the highest order. The walls of this architecture have seen the perfidious activities of many Nawabs of Avadh.
The details of the ambience and ceremonies held at the Durbar of the second King of Awadh, Nasir-ud-Din Haider, are detailed by Knighton, in his fictional account of the life of an Eastern King. Ironically, this description appears to be copied by several English writers and is also (partly) reproduced at many places. The beautiful interiors of the Throne Room in the Lal Baradari are depicted in a painting by a Lucknow artist in 1850, which is in the Collection of Islamic Arts. It shows embellished pillars and arches of the Throne Room and winged beauties representing Pari (female angels), painted on the ceiling which appear to have glided down from the heaven. It is a pity that no trace of this pretty art work is now available.
Lal Baradari is well known in history of Awadh for the episodes of the coronation of Munna Jan, the son of Nasir-ud-Din Haider, by his grandmother Badsah Begum on July 8,1837.
The coronati.on was held against the wishes of the acting British Resident who refused to recognise Munna Jan as the legitimate son Of Nasir-ud-Din Haider and his heir. There was a violent clash in which a large number of supporters of Badshah Begum were killed when British troops arrived from the Mardiaon Cantonment to dethrone the new King. Within four hours of his coronation, Munna Jan was arrested along with his grandmother Badshah Begum and his mother Afzal Mahal. They were then taken to Chunar Fort near Varanasi and imprisoned. The British Resident installed Muhammad Ali Shah, the 63 year old uncle of Nasir-ud-Din Haider, as the King, when he signed a document to follow all terms and conditions imposed by the British East India Company for the administration of the kingdom of Oudh.
After the annexation of Awadh (Oudh) Lal Baradari was used as a ceremonial hall for the state functions and on October 26, 1859, the grandest Durbar ever was held here when Lord Canning read Queen Victoria’s Proclamation, announcing a general pardon for her native subjects. Thereafter it was used as a library and much later on it was used as a Museum. After the independence of India, when the State Museum came up in Banarsi Bagh (Zoological Garden), the Baradai was handed over to the State Academy of Fine Arts and the main Coronation Hall or the Throne Room of Nawabi days and its basement were converted to functional display galleries. False ceilings have now been installed below the original ceiling and the walls of the display rooms are covered with boards that hide the decorated pillars, archways, ceilings and other ornamental features of Lal Baradari for which it once was known so well and held in high regard.
Source/Credits : Lost Monuments of Lucknow (Saiyed Anwer Abbas) & Monuments of Lucknow (Yogesh Parveen
