Kumbh in Prayagraj

December 15, 2018

How Kumbh in Prayagraj (earlier known as Allahabad) came about ?

Filed under: Lucknowledge — @ 9:50 am

2019 will see the largest human gathering in Prayagraj (earlier known as Allahabad) at Kumbh – a religious bathing festival that attracts saints, ascetics and hordes of devotees. For quite some time we were inquisitive about how had this festival been managed when India was a British colony, what happened to it during the uprising of 1857, or how did it survive the cruelty of Aurangzeb against all communities except his own ? This article tries to unearth a few facts and trace the evolution of ‘Kumbh’ in Prayagraj. 

Kumbh Mela, Prayagraj

Kumbh Mela – Prayagraj (an areal view) – (Pic. Credit – Geeta Pandey- BBC)

The religious mela, i.e., a fair in Prayagraj has not only survived, but also evolved with the passage of time. It is said that when Aurangzeb took over the throne, he tried to put an end to this regularly organised religious congregation in Allahabad every winter, which he thought was a futile activity and did not confirm to his beliefs. Upon doing so he had to face the stiff resistance of the Naga Sadhus, each of whom was brave and armed with a trishul, i.e., a trident. Aurangzeb not only was taken aback seeing the ash smeared naked sadhus, braving the chilly winter and bathing in chilled river early in the morning, but also decided not to touch them as they were devoid of valuables. This fact has been recorded by Khafi Khan in his book titled ‘History of Alamgir’.

Going through the records, the myth was broken about the existence of the event of Kumbh in the ancient times. An annual affair known as Magh Mela with its roots in Prayag then existed. Upon reading Nehru we find that the religious event of Kumbh is nowhere mentioned in the Puranas and that its origin is “lost in an unknown antiquity”. Of course, there exist enough evidences to prove that the Magh Mela has been organised every year in Prayagraj. Then, the size of its gathering not only differed, but also often grew with each passing year. 

Akhara at Kumbh

Sadhus of Juna Akhara sit inside their tent at Kumbh mela in Allahabad (Pic. Credit – K Sandeep Kumar and Smriti Malaviya – Hindustan Times)

One theory takes clue from the fact, that religious priests, ascetics and pilgrims stopped at Prayag, but that was only a break while heading to Haridwar, another seat of Kumbh. Akharas (The word ‘Akhara’ means a wrestling ring. However, here Akhara refers to the community formed in the 8th century by Adi Shankracharya. There are primarily two Akharas. While one follows Lord Shiva, the other follows Lord Vishnu. Later in the 12th century another Akhara by the name of ‘Udaseen’ came into existence. This was by the Sikhs) moved in processions like celebrating caravans during the event of Kumbh. Then, they also peg tents, cook together and take community bath together. Later at the culmination of the event, while some of them scatter to lead their own lives, others go up in the Himalayas to spend time in caves and forests. Mela, as it is associated with commerce and in the olden times, it is said that the Akharas fought among themselves for supremacy and the winning Akhara was allowed to tax the pilgrims during the mela. This theory points out to the fact that the stakes in Hardwar Kumbh were quite high as compared to Allahabad. Haridwar involved trade of horses, elephants, camels and cattle, while in Allahabad it were only low cost items, such as utensils and clothes that were traded. Surely the religious freedom with mela in Allahabad grew manifold and there was this yet another place where religion could be expressed. Allahabad, then became yet another turf for sadhus to express their religious freedom and assert themselves defiantly in the British India.

Next, a somewhat love-hate relationship existed between the British and the Indians. Both saw each other with skepticism and at times their relationship gave an impression that they loved each other quite a lot, while at times it was inherent hatred that came forth. Anyway, this matter is out of context here and requires an entirely different debate.

Coming back to the point, at first the British perceived the congregation as a compulsive headache to be managed. This was owing to not only the large size of the gathering, but also the great excitement of bathing in the Holy Ganges with which the people were charged up. After the Treaty of Allahabad was signed between the Mughal Emperor Shah Alam – II (he fought against the British along with Suja-ud-Daulah, the Nawab of Awadh in the battle of Buxar) and Robert Clive, the Commander-in-Chief of the British East India Company in the year 1765, Allahabad, in a way, came under the British governance. The situation was thus as the power to collect taxes as an imperial tax collector vested in the Company. Then, the Company upon realising the strategic position of Allahabad and that the place can serve well as a gateway for further expansion, officially took over it in the year 1801.

After the British took over Allahabad Fort, life-threatening cholera struck the British troops in the fort. The fort is located near the site of this annual fair which happens on the banks of the river Ganges, near the confluence of the three rivers, Ganges, Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati (known as ‘Sangam’). At first the British were not sure if they can manage this large congregation at this annual fair. However, son they realised a huge economic opportunity here. They began taxing the pilgrims and charged a sum of rupee one as tax to bathe in the holy water during this fair. Rupee one was then considered quite an amount at that time and was enough to survive for a month. Hence, this move triggered resentment among the locals and the pilgrims alike. Nevertheless, instead of witnessing any improvement, the state of affairs worsened with the introduction of more rules to effectively manage the economic affairs during the tenure of the mela. As a matter of fact, almost every religious event has a commercial aspect attached to it and so this mela was no different. Thus we can safely say that the organised system of holding large religious fairs such as this one in Allahabad, was introduced by the British in the beginning of 19th century.

With the intervention of British in the religious fairs, Christians too started camping here for various reasons. Some came as visitors to closely view Hinduism in action, some came to do business and yet some came as missionaries to spread Christianity. The intervention by the British was perceived, often, as interference in religious affairs by the visiting Hindu priests and pilgrims. Naga Sadhus have been considered as the principal part of this congregation and they specifically took offence to this interference. It is said that once a Christian missionary threw a stone at one such Sadhu only to prove that Nagas are normal human beings and thus, feel the same human pain and agony.  

Year 1857 was the year of unrest in North India. It was the year of the uprising against the British, and Allahabad as a consequence, was not left untouched either. In fact, the mela then served as an instrument to strongly communicate a message. Using this instrument, more than 1400 people revolted against the British in this region. They took control of the bridge on the Ganges which connected trans and sis Ganges. Next, they also attacked the churches in Allahabad to vent their anger on. The prevalent out of control unrest was also instigated by the priests at the annual fair then. The situation became so hopeless that the British Collector of the city of Allahabad described it as “British power is to close this year”. It was only after the intervention of Col James Neill that the situation was finally brought under control. He set out for Allahabad from Benares (now Varanasi) on 9th June, 1857 and ordered the British troops to hang anyone whom they suspected as a rebellion. This move deterred the rebels and cleared the city of them. Then, to showcase their retaliation, the British also confiscated a massive land in Allahabad around the river bank. In fact today, this piece of land constitutes the vast mela grounds of Allahabad. The mela was, following the crush of the uprising by the British, not organized out of fear in January/February of 1858.

However, the fear subsided by 1859 and the mela started taking shape once again. From 1860s the defiance against the British rule grew. The moral victory of the people of Prayag over the British was symbolically reflected in the flags of the religious community and the Akharas. The sentiment to gain freedom from the British rule attracted more Indians to this annual religious event. The religious focus assumed a blend of social and political forms. “It is not difficult to divine, from the scowls and mutterings of men as Europeans pass by,” writes an English journalist covering the mela in 1860, “what they would do if they dared.” – They surely couldn’t do much at that time, but this was a beginning of a thought process. It was then when the people of Allahabad formed an association and registered it with the British Government. The association ensured the residents of the city the freedom to follow their faith and perform associated religious rituals without any interference. As a part of this formation every 12th Magh Mela was given the name of Kumbh Mela. This exercise was, in a way, a successful attempt to counter the British rule and some unacceptable regulations laid by the British. In 1868, the phrase ‘Kumbh Mela’ was first mentioned in writing by the then Deputy Commissioner G.H.M. Ricketts in his administrative report, while before that there seems to be no mention of this name in any records and it was only referred as ‘Magh Mela’ or so a part of research suggests. Delving into the mind-set of the British administrators, they might have felt relieved upon knowing that this annual fair in Allahabad that used to put most of the government machinery to work every year, would now be a big affair only once in twelve years. While rest of the years it may not draw that large a crowd.

In 1858, it was in Allahabad that Earl Canning read the proclamation of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, transferring the reigns of India from East India Company to the British Crown. It was this one day that Allahabad became the capital of India. Then In 1877, Allahabad was declared the capital of United Provinces of Agra & Awadh, remaining so through 1920. It was after the uprising of 1857, in later part of 1858 that British really wanted to regain the lost trust of Indians and then Kumbh became one such mega event to garner the support.

If we read and analyse the account of Hsiuan Tsang (also known as Xuanzang and sometimes spelt as ‘Hsuan Tsang’), the great Chinese traveller who visited Prayag in 643 CE mentions about a fair that was held there, without mentioning its name as, ‘Kumbh’. In fact he goes on further to state, that Emperor Harsha organised it and that it was an event around Lord Buddha.

Chaitanya, a Bengali mystic had visited this fair in Allahabad and translations of his work would read ‘Kumbh’, though if one examines the original Bengali text, it becomes evident that Chaitanya visited Magh Mela and it was not referred as ‘Kumbh Mela’ distorted later in the edited versions of his work.

Fanny Parkes’ who visited Allahabad in 1830, does not refer to the fair as ‘Kumbh’. She has referred it as a ‘mela’. Later, her work when edited explains ‘mela’ as ‘Kumbh’. Not wrong though, as editor wanted to make readers relate to it more closely and understand it better.     

‘Ardh Kumbh’ for example, just lost its prefix ‘Ardh’ (meaning half) in 2019, as now it is being projected as being at par with the ‘Maha Kumbh’, if not bigger. Maha Kumbh happens every twelve years, while the last Maha Kumbh happened in 2013, technically this 2019 is the ‘Ardh Kumbh’, occurring at six year interval. Thanks to the Chief Minister of the state of Uttar Pradesh, Yogi Adityanath, who himself is a Mahant (head-priest) and follows Shivaism. Yogi Adityanath conceptualised the renaming of ‘Ardh Kumbh’ to ‘Kumbh’ thereby giving it a larger form, similar to the main ‘Kumbh’ after being elected to power in the state. – This is how events evolve with time, names change and magnitudes enlarge with the change of political guards.

Today, the elected governments of free India and the state of Uttar Pradesh do just that, making Kumbh an event to garner trust of voters and boast about how successfully they manage this mega show after its over, and of course if managed well. In 2013 it attracted 120 million visitors and this mega event finds mention in UNESCO’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Many events, especially those related to faith are better left unexplained. How intelligently and keeping in line with sentiments Jawahar Lal Nehru in his book ‘Discovery of India writes about the origin of Kumbh : “lost in an unknown antiquity”.      

Kumbh in 1954

Picture of Allahabad Kumbh (C 1954)

December 9, 2018

India Beyond Golden Triangle (article by TTJ Travel-Magazine)

Filed under: News — @ 7:27 am

Wonderlook Magazine Interview of Tornos’ Founder President & CEO – Prateek Hira (December -2018 Issue)

Filed under: News — @ 7:17 am

Prateek has two researches to his credit, one on Sri Lankan Tourism as a part of for his research for The Leeds Metropolitan University, while another research by him was on Senior Tourism for Center of Tourism Recreation Research. He has been a Heritage Tourism’ by IGI Global, US. He has two Post Graduate degrees to his credit, one in tourism while another in economics and is academically quite active by not only serving on the boards of many Indian universities but also by regularly teaching tourism in the capacity of an adjunct professor of tourism in many universities.

Prateek Hira talks to Wonderlook about his wonderful journey and ambition. Here is how he responded to some of our questions. And the answers given by him clearly reflect his utmost desire of developing tourism in the country and surely this conversation was an enriching experience.

Tornos is about to complete the milestone of successful 25 years in the market, would you like to share your experience on the journey so far?

Some sweet, some sour, some good, some bad and some ugly, is how I describe my journey of 25 years in tourism trade. When we completed our 19 years we were joyous to know that we ended our teen years and were entering adulthood but we were clear that our quest for learning will never end, so we took up the phrase, ‘Learning Tourism’ even in our ‘25 years run-up logo’ that changed every year like a count up number from 20 to 25.

The days in 1994 when Tornos was set up were tough, really tough, and when today we look back, we realise our own evolution and how we evolved traversing this journey of 25 years. The day when Tornos was set-up we had gleaming eyes that looked ahead and we resolved to do things that others don’t. Term ‘out-of-the-box’ was quite clear to us and we always planned our products based on ‘Knowledge’. ‘Knowledge’ according to us,  is the key component of any successful tourism product and to offer some unique experiences one has to rediscover, reinvent and redesign to suit the evolving taste of the travellers.

In 1994 when no one was thinking of walking tours we offered ours, when no one was talking of street food to foreigners, we started our food walk and when no foreign tourist was coming to Lucknow we brought in many of our clients here. The projection and explanation of an ‘Experiential Tour Company’ was extremely difficult then, but we believed in our products and above all we believed in ourselves. So here we are today in our 25th year of being.

India is a huge market and has enormous potential, yet most of the service offered by most of the travel trade is calculable and stereotype. What is your response to this?

India due to its diversity and versatility is attractive for all demands. We need to segment demands and carefully place products under suitable categories. ‘Look Beyond’ should be the mantra for all of us, where we design programmes that are out-of-the-box, backed by well-researched knowledge, are immersive in nature and have a unique proposition.

Travel has evolved with time and the demand has shifted from ‘sightseeing’ to ‘sight-experiencing’, from ‘just visits’ to seeking ‘in-depth knowledge’ and from ‘abstract’ to ‘immersive’. Thematic tours that are loaded with knowledge could do wonders and there is absolutely no dearth of special interest themes in India. Be it gastronomy, history, culture, craft, religion, performing arts all have a strong presence, it’s just about converting these assets into experiences and designing thematic tours around these to make the visits meaningful and loaded with firsthand knowledge.

Then there are untouched regions of India, rather states that have great potential but we have not thought of it and have only saturated specific places, thereby suffering in terms of incoming numbers. We need to create new avenues for tourists and also simultaneouly recreate and reinvent existing destinations, thinking of repeat tourists who would like to come in search of new destinations and may also want to repeat destinations from previous visits only to explore another aspect of the same destination. We as tour operators need to come out of our comfort zone and not only develop our markets by venturing into untapped markets, but also grow our existing markets by offering new products and avenues.

It is important that we adopt a differentiation strategy and based on our specialisation and acumen become a ‘market nicher’, occupying a niche in the market. In fact Indian tourism industry lacks such professionals and there is a huge dearth in this segment. Sadly in India, we only value large players in tourism, often overlooking and ignoring the niche operators, who consciously are small, though now when there is a paradigm shift in tourism demand, niche operators offering micro-specialisations and experiences, are the players who take the front seat and are expected to drive the growth in tourism.

As tourism has evolved world over, India too needs to keep pace with this evolution by reinventing and rediscovering itself as a destination. We as operators did think of repeat businesses, but seldom pondered upon the idea of ‘repeat destinations’, that actually did not allow destinations to grow beyond a set product offer. It is imperatively important that we as industry, graduate to the next level on our offers, rediscover the already discovered in all its new light and redesign the days and nights spent here. Attention should be paid to retain tourists for more nights with host of experiences and activities on offer, add more excursions to the list than just overselling a few and allowing visitors to experience first-hand real local life should be the agenda.

You mentioned the necessity of rediscovering and rebranding Indian destinations. How do you intend to encourage the industry to make it work?

India is a huge untapped arena and there is enough for everyone here. We only need to re-discover, differentiate, re-brand and then reap the riches of tourism.

“Tourism to be delivered, needs to be understood”. India has been considered a single destination, often overlooking its diversity and huge size, and then tourism in India was thought only to be visiting concrete structures and quite restricted to a few north Indian states. Kerala was first to break this stereotype image and emerge as a destination unto itself and now many other states are following this model. Travel has evolved with time and technology, today’s traveller is mature and learned due to his vast exposure and easy access to global knowledge. A mere visit is not tourism today, it has to have an element of learning and absorption that makes the visit meaningful.

Till quite recently, as tourism industry, we refused to budge from our old run-of-the-mill itineraries and thought Taj Mahal will be able to handle all the burden of India to sell tourism, but we were so sadly mistaken about this and just in time realised and changed track from offering just tours to offering experiences. The time has now come, to reinvent, differentiate and localise our tourism efforts and to come out of our DMC mindsets, that has believed in ‘know-all, do all’. It is just not possible in case of India, which is not only large in size but also quite diverse in its offer. 

We need to understand the essentials of tourism in the new age and focus on promotion of experiences rather than just concrete heritage. India by virtue is an experiential destination and can offer unlimited avenues in this area. It is imperative that we understand this paradigm shift in demand and accordingly develop a micro understanding of products, get into micro-planning that values local experiences and encouraging the trade to think out-of-box. Each destination in India should be reinvented, rediscovered and rebranded with renewed focus on making India a hub of experiences.

Tornos is known to have so many experiences and thinks out-of-box. Throw some light on this.

If you see our logo, the tagline reads ‘The Nostalgic Experience’ this is what we have stood for since our being and this has been our core-competency that has made us stand apart. Every year Tornos is known to introduce no less than three out-of-box products and tours. A committed team works all through the year to conceptualise, research, plan and host innovative products. We launched walking tours in 1994 when probably Indian tourism industry did not know about this concept. Presumably, or as far as we know, India’s first food walk was started by us in Lucknow way back in 1995, when we took the mantle of offering street food to foreign tourists for an experience. Today most of our products are highly recommended by international travel magazines such as Conde Nast Traveller, Lonely Planet and Nat Geo Traveller. 

There are many new comers in the Industry who would love to hear few words of wisdom from a knowledgeable person like you. What do you want to say to them?

I think new comers whom I refer to as ‘new blood’ in the industry, bring in freshness of thoughts, fresh ideas and give new life to the tourism industry. Having said that, it is imperative that the new generation realises that tourism has evolved if we foresee 2030 it is just about 12 years ahead and if we look at 12 years ago we realise we lived in a primitive era, where everything was so different. The way we lived, worked, researched and communicated all were so different. Imagine 12 years ahead, it will again be so different, rather more, as each decade has a faster pace of change than its predecessor.

Some people believe that tourism education may not be important to be a successful entrepreneur but I think otherwise. Education in tourism gives a robust and firm ground while it also makes one understand the industry in depth. New comers wishing to join the trade should ideally study tourism to have an analytical edge over others. Internship and field visit should be treated with utter seriousness by the students of tourism in order to get the pulse of the current environs and to understand the pace of the tourism industry.

Comments of Prateek Hira to Travel Magazine T3FS in Cover story : BJP – A Game Changer for Travel Industry?

Filed under: News — @ 7:12 am

“Last four years have been tough for the tourism industry. With falling arrivals, loss in traditional markets and increased competition both within and with other destinations it has been tough.

Strategic planning for tourism took a back seat in this government. Tourism seemed not to be a priority area, especially if one talks of inbound tourism. Of course, domestic tourism was quite seriously taken up but given the recent depletion of foreign exchange reserves, inbound tourism could have come in quite handy and to a large extent could have addressed the issue. GST on luxury rooms and many other tourism-related services is killing as 18-28% seems to be adding up to the overall costs and making the cost of travel quite high.

With the new tourism minister Mr. K.J. Alphons taking over we were quite upbeat, but for some reason on ground, realities were not as expected. Synchronization between the center and state governments seemed missing in tourism. Third largest foreign tourist arrival state of India, Uttar Pradesh refused to project itself internationally and even its mega-event Kumbh did not figure in any international promotions in any trade-fare abroad, this in spite of the fact that both the center and the state have same and full majority governments. Agra, home to Taj Mahal suddenly got neglected and the tourism industry in Agra is quite demoralized with such a step-motherly treatment being accorded to it. State Capital of Lucknow is one example of the derailment of on-going projects even those nearing completion and those that could have been a game changer for tourism. Same was the case with the state of Uttrakhand.

Government at the center could have brought the states in sync with its own tourism agenda if at all it had one, at least those where the governments were same. Unfortunately, it did not happen and there was also no interdepartmental understanding in this regard.

In its last phase, government of India can still turn the tables and not only clarify its priority status on tourism but also spell out its agenda for future.

There would be many questions that the government will have to answer to the tourism industry and surely tourism industry would want to know if tourism would at all be a priority of the next government. Also, the industry seeks to know, what will be next government’s stand on tourism development in its next term. States that are ruled by BJP will also have an impact on center’s election and so tourism will figure-in and industry’s voting pattern will be quite dependent on how states have treated tourism in their own turfs.

I am particularly seeing areas that were neglected or left un-cared being a tough call. Tourism Industry in India is quite small and seldom drives elections but the general perception of development and growth are evident by the way tourism develops in the country. Also, tourism is directly linked to country’s international image, which seldom our governments realise.

It would be worthwhile that before the election, tourism appears in the party’s manifesto and it spells out its time-bound strategy on tourism. Many places in India where the economy is driven by tourism might be a tough call. As rightly stated by this government itself that times have come when development and growth will be the deciding factor of government formation. Tourism is an integral part of the development and surely helps in perception building of a country thus cannot be overlooked.” Mr. Hira commented on 2019 elections.”