The last monarch of Oudh (Awadh), Wajid Ali Shah, climbed on the gangway of the steamer McLeod as it parked at Bichali ghat near Metiabruz in Calcutta on May 13, 1856, a hot and muggy day.

He made stops in Varanasi, Allahabad, and Kanpur on his way from Lucknow. After receiving a respectful greeting and farewell from Ishwari Prasad Narayan Singh, the Maharaja of Varanasi, it took him eighteen days to arrive here.

He had no idea at the time that he would live for the following thirty-one years in this culturally focused metropolis and never go back to his home in Awadh. He traveled with his entourage to stay at the towering Spence’s Hotel, which at the time was regarded as the best hotel in Asia, and was hit with the terrible fact that he was no longer the King of Oudh.

Wajid Ali Shah traveled to Calcutta to meet the British governor-general because he had heard so much about the British spirit of fairness and fair play. He was still hopeful that he might persuade Canning, the new governor general, that Awadh should be returned to him because it had been annexed on a bogus accusation of maladministration.

Shah proceeded to see Canning, who ordered a 21-gun salute from the Fort William walls. The overthrown monarch quickly realized that the astute governor-general was not there to further his own or his kingdom of Awadh’s interests, but rather those of the corporation. He dispatched his mother, brother, and son to England to present his case to Queen Victoria and the British Parliament in spite of this early setback.

All prospects of Awadh being returned to its overthrown monarch were crushed when the 1857 rebellion occurred while discussions were taking place in England. The English used all of their resources and efforts to put an end to the insurrection.

The establishment placed the overthrown king under house imprisonment at Amherst House inside Fort William, where he remained for 26 months, out of concern that the “mutineers” may band together and launch an uprising in Calcutta.

He chose to remain in Calcutta after being released, adopting Metiabruz as his new home. Back then, the region had almost three kilometers of elegant residences, acres of gardens, rich greenery, a breathtaking view of the Indian Botanic Garden’s trees across the river, and a refreshing river wind.

He was reminded of his beloved river Gomti in Lucknow by the sight of the swift-moving Hooghly. Additionally, it had a single, old watchtower made of unbaked clay bricks that served as a guide for the river’s vessels. This tower is perhaps the reason Metiabruz earned its name. Burj means tower, while metia/mitti means clay in Urdu.

Hundreds of Wajid Ali Shah’s devoted people joined their erstwhile monarch when word got out that he had chosen to recreate the charm of Lucknow in this new neighborhood. The British, who were very astute administrators, were suspicious and made many attempts to discredit him. However, he was a gifted individual who carried out his intentions and established a sophisticated culture that is still present in this enormous city.

Warren Hastings founded the Calcutta Madarsa in 1781, marking the beginning of the Urdu language’s arrival in Calcutta. William Jones founded the Asiatic Society in 1784, which aided in the development of Urdu and other languages. In 1800, Fort William College joined these two establishments, attempting to teach Indian languages to British authorities while also promoting the growth of Bengali and Urdu.

When it became clear that Shah would stay in Metiabruz, hundreds of Awadh residents moved there, which was the main catalyst for the language’s expansion. Chaste Urdu, which the settlers began speaking, gradually became popular among the general populace. Events like mushairas (poetic symposiums), ghazals, marsiaya (the tragedy of Karbala told in lyrical form), and qawalis gained popularity as a result of Shah’s patronage and promotion of artists and poets.

A new generation of gifted poets, authors, singers, and narrators emerged as a result. The language used in this region of the city or state is therefore seen as superior to others. Many terms, idioms, and analogies that are no longer used in everyday life are nevertheless used by traditional families in this area. Hearing them is delightful.

The king’s introduction of Kathak and Thumri, two traditional dance traditions, was one of his most important accomplishments. Although Kathak is a Hindu dance style, the distinctive Lucknow gharana of Kathak developed and flourished under the patronage of the secular and artistic Shah in Lucknow.

Many talented singers, musicians, lyricists, and dancers from Lucknow, Varanasi, Allahabad, and Kanpur flocked to Calcutta when it was reintroduced with great fervor in Metiabruz.

Their greatest supporter was the overthrown Shah. The cultural renaissance of this city was enhanced by the loss of Awadhi. In the traditional royal manner, the monarch hosted frequent Kathak dance performances in his parikhana, or the home of his young dancers. Some of the local artists who benefited from Metiabruz’s musical culture were talented musicians of the time, such as Pandit Jadu Bhatta, who later taught music to Rabindranath Tagore, and Raja Sourindra Mohan Tagore of the Pathuriaghata Tagore dynasty.

When the Bengali babus first saw this, they constructed their own jalsaghar, or dance halls, where Thumri or Kathak events were frequently conducted. When wealthy Bengalis began supporting artists, the result was the rise of hundreds of Baiji kothas around the city, not just in Metiabruz.

The Wajid Ali Shah-credited song “Babul Mora Naihar Chuto Hi Jai” is still the most well-known bhairavi in the state, and almost no artist performs it without emotion.

The Awadhi culture quickly spread over this region. Metiabruz transformed into a shahi mohalla complete with all the accoutrements of aristocracy and monarchy, including activities like poetry readings, cockfighting, and kite flying.

The rulers and nobility of Awadh were known for their fashion sense, and Shah introduced them to the exquisite craft of Lucknawi tailoring. In response to their demand, numerous tailors from Awadh relocated to the vicinity of Metiabruz. They specialized in crafting achkhan, kurta-pyjama, sherwani, shahrara, gharara, and shalwar-kameez. Skills were passed down from one generation to the next, eventually leading to the emergence of a vast community of tailors. The area became home to hundreds of stores offering fabrics and various accessories.

Informally, it has emerged as one of the largest hubs for unbranded clothing production in Asia. The garments made here are sent to high-end boutiques and major retailers throughout the country, with some even being exported abroad. The presence of tall buildings and luxury vehicles in this region serves as evidence of the thriving economy.

If there is one aspect the residents of this state cherish about Shah, it is the exquisite biryani cuisine. The tale of how this enchanting dish from Lucknow made its way to Calcutta and transformed into the Calcutta biryani, complete with its distinctive potato, is a frequently recounted narrative.

It is to the nawab’s credit that he established a small version of Lucknow in this area, ensuring that its culinary traditions flourished as well. Several skilled chefs, or khansamas, accompanied him from Lucknow, continuing the preparation of dishes such as pulao, korma, biryani, zarda, roghni roti, sheermal, and shahi tukra.

Though Shah passed away nearly 133 years ago, his legacy persists as a significant element of both the tangible and intangible aspects of Bengal’s culture. In this regard, the malicious objectives of the British could not erase his contributions.